To sample as much of the region as possible, I tackled Tuscany by incorporating a road trip sandwiched in between a city break in Rome and a week in a villa in Volterra. Our journey north took us through some amazing places, let us meet some wonderful people and, of course, allowed us to sample the fabulous Tuscan food, wine and hospitality.
Day One - Rome to Porto Santo Stefano
Porto Santo Stefano is about two hours north of Rome. It is situated on the west coast in Southern Tuscany on the peninsula of Monte Argentario and is one of two harbour towns, the other being Porto Ercole.
Porto Santo Stefano is a traditional fishing town with a strong presence of excellent fish restaurants beside the harbour which is set at the foot of a cluster of narrow streets and houses tumbling down the hillside.
Yachts in the harbour at Porto Santo Stefano
B&B Villa Flora is situated about a 15 minute walk from the town. After a busy 4 night break in Rome, it really was the perfect place to unwind. Perched on a rocky outcrop with amazing ocean views, the B&B is a beautifully renovated villa. Some of the rooms come with their own private balconies and you can breakfast on the terrace watching the sun rise over the popular Island of Giglio. You also have access to a small (non sandy) private beach below the villa. We found this a great place to relax in the afternoon, before wandering into the main town in the evening for dinner.
Breakfast terrace - B&B Villa Flora, Porto Santo Stefano
Around Porto Santo Stefano, slightly further north, The Maremma is well worth visiting. A preserved area of natural beauty in Tuscany, it offers something for everyone from wildlife enthusiasts, walkers, canoeists as well as beaches for sun worshipers!
Day Two - Porto Santo Stefano to Montalcino
The second day of our road trip saw us skirt around The Maremma and follow the SS1 north and eastwards into Central Tuscany. Your destination is Montalcino, a timeless, idyllic Tuscan town with a population of only 5,100.
Montalcino is situated almost 570 metres above sea level between the valleys of the rivers Ombrone, Asso and Orcia. The town is a maze of tumble down shops and houses set on cobbled narrow and winding streets - it's easy to spend hours strolling in the sunshine and exploring the eclectic mix of craft shops, art studios, cafes and enotecas.
The wider area of the municipal territory of Montalcino is renowned for it's wine production, so if big booming reds are your thing, this is the perfect place. The most famous wine from the area is Brunello and you will find that the majority of the shops, regardless of their regular type of trade, will sell wine and offer tastings.
The west wall of Montalcino along Viale Strozzi
We stayed in a basic bed and breakfast called Il Rifugio D'altri Tempi on the main Piazzale beside the 14th Century Fortezza. Clean and tidy, offering everything you need, it provided the ideal base to explore the town.
Right next door to the B&B is Drogheria Franci, a fabulous little enoteca offering wine tastings with a local feel as well as local delicacies. An outdoor terrace allows you to sit with impressive views of the imposing Fortezza.
Other places worth visiting include the excellent Vineria Le Potazzine which is a perfect for a spot of lunch and Al Giullare which is the restaurant that we chose for our evening meal, just around the corner from the B&B, offering fantastic food (especially the duck!) and great service at a reasonable price.
Day Three - Montalcino to Monteriggioni
Staying in Central Tuscany, day three involves a shorter journey, travelling north for a further hour into the Chianti region, to the captivating medieval walled village of Monteriggioni.
View of the main piazza in Monteriggioni from In Piazza B&B
With a population of barely 700 people, this completely enclosed 13th century castled village, features in the the famous Divine Comedy by Dante. No vehicles are allowed into the village which centres around one main piazza in front of the castle.
Within the castle itself is the stylish In Piazza Bed & Breakfast featuring beautifully appointed rooms overlooking the main square. The piazza itself has three restaurants, the most notable being Ristorante Il Pozzo which offers high end dining.
The church of Santa Maria Assunta in the main piazza in Monteriggioni
Around the perimeter of the village, you will find a selection of local craft shops, the pick of which is Iris, who make hand crafted jewellery, sundials and water colour paintings. It is also worth paying the small charge of a few Euros to walk along the fortified walls of the village offering impressive views stretching out to the Chianti countryside beyond.
Day Four - Monteriggioni to Volterra
The final day of travel is relatively short, travelling westwards into Western Tuscany for around 45 minutes, arriving at the Etruscan market town of Volterra.
The town has a wealth of museums, exhibiting impressive collections of Etruscan artefacts and also features the remains of an old Roman Theatre - the Teatro Romano. It is also famous for it's beautifully crafted white statues made from locally mined alabaster and sold by the many craft shops within the tangled web of streets.
Day Four - Monteriggioni to Volterra
The final day of travel is relatively short, travelling westwards into Western Tuscany for around 45 minutes, arriving at the Etruscan market town of Volterra.
The town has a wealth of museums, exhibiting impressive collections of Etruscan artefacts and also features the remains of an old Roman Theatre - the Teatro Romano. It is also famous for it's beautifully crafted white statues made from locally mined alabaster and sold by the many craft shops within the tangled web of streets.
The Teatro Romano, Viale Ferucci, Volterra
Volterra itself is handily placed with other popular Tuscan towns and cities within easy reach, allowing you to factor in a few day trips if you are planning on a longer stay. Pisa is just over an hour north and west of the town and heading in the other direction, you can reach Florence in around the same time, travelling north and east.
If you have the time, it is worth hopping back over to Central Tuscany to visit the picturesque San Gimignano, and in particular the Tenuta Torciano Winery based just outside the town. The winery offers tastings, cookery classes, parties and events and the staff are guaranteed to give you a warm and friendly reception as you learn all about their locally produced wines. Tenuta Torciano will be featured later in my blog.
We chose to stay in Volterra for a week, rounding off our Tuscan road trip. Our villa was a short drive from the town featuring just a single bedroom and a private swimming pool - if you are travelling as a couple, it really is the perfect property for the ultimate relaxing, romantic break. You can view the villa here.
If you have the time, it is worth hopping back over to Central Tuscany to visit the picturesque San Gimignano, and in particular the Tenuta Torciano Winery based just outside the town. The winery offers tastings, cookery classes, parties and events and the staff are guaranteed to give you a warm and friendly reception as you learn all about their locally produced wines. Tenuta Torciano will be featured later in my blog.
We chose to stay in Volterra for a week, rounding off our Tuscan road trip. Our villa was a short drive from the town featuring just a single bedroom and a private swimming pool - if you are travelling as a couple, it really is the perfect property for the ultimate relaxing, romantic break. You can view the villa here.
Podere Coiano Villa, Voterra
Swimming pool at Podere Coiano Villa, Volterra
Tuscany really is one of the must see regions of Italy. It's scenery, food and wine, towns, villages and the welcome from local residents make it almost unmissable. I hope that this post has helped give you a flavour of the region and provided you with some ideas to plan the perfect trip!
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